Tommaso peeled himself off the floor in the canteen at Carhaix which had been his bed for 5 hours, and on exiting the control, we carefully stepped over a multitude of randonneurs who had billeted themselves in a similar manner.
Doc had spent the night in a comfortable Air BnB. Although he had slept in a proper bed, showered (again), and been provided with an ample breakfast, he was putting himself at great risk from ‘Soft Randonneur Syndrome’, commonly known as ‘SRS’. This is a condition where the long distance cyclist finds it almost impossible to sleep on a floor, in a ditch or even a comfy bus shelter….an unthinkable situation for one of this arcane calling.
Tommaso and The Wattmeister had the edge. They ached all over, which saved them focussing on just one particular niggle, and had slept just enough in such discomfort that riding the bike again was an attractive option…..poor Doc.
From Carhaix, the trio found a comfortable rhythm along the D769 to Huelgoat. Climbing steadily in the darkness, surrounded by the lights of other participants was a spiritual experience. Doc was having a hard time after his comfortable night…so Tommaso and The Wattmeister gave him a vicarious experience with tales of randonneurs snoring, farting and talking in their sleep to buoy his flagging spirits
Onwards and upwards, the migration of cyclists ascended to the highest point of the ride at Roc Trevezel. In truth, an easy soporific type of climb. The plateau near the summit populated by camper vans and motorhomes either spectating or offering food and drink to the riders. There followed a scintillating descent to lovely Sizun and the opportunity to grab a coffee/croissant snack before the push into Brest about 40 kms distant.
We descended Le Queff and sped into Landerneau sitting astride the L’Elorn river in a Mediterranean fashion. The halfway point beckoned, but Brest is a lumpy city and we had many hills to negotiate. Doc had almost recovered from his sybaritic night’s sleep…thank God…we really feared for his wellbeing, and was back suffering like the rest of us.
The control at Lycée Kerichen in Brest was situated at the bottom of a humongous hill. We fortified ourselves in different ways. Doc and Tommaso chose to eat proper food in the canteen, while The Wattmeister opted to ferret out the last of his illegally imported pork scratchings and have a kip on the dewy grass adjacent to the bikepark. After twenty minutes or so of fitful sleep, dreaming that he was sleeping in a pond full of frog spawn, a soaking wet Wattmeister greeted his refreshed comrades and we winched ourselves up the massive hill out of town.
It was plain to see who had made the correct choice at Brest. While Doc and Tommaso had sensibly refuelled and made use of the toilets, their mood could not in any way be compared to The Wattmeister’s superior disposition. Grumpy, hungry, in need of a shit, and still drying out from his sleep, The Wattmeister was raring to go…..HOME!
The new route from Brest to Carhaix looked and proved to be a tough amendment. We crossed Pont Albert Louppe which spans the L’Elorn estuary looking mighty fine and calm in the morning light. Thanks to Brest council for the toilettes publiques on the south side of the bridge.
The next 45kms or so incorporated a mix of beautiful towns and villages and lots of hills before another secret control at Pleyben, a very attractive village about halfway to Carhaix. It was early afternoon, our progress was slowed by the heat and the sensible choice to ride well within our limited ability. We were faced with an eternal, feverish climb up to Plonvenez-Faou before finally entering the commune of Carhaix-Plougeur, a very tough stage of the ride in hot and unshaded conditions.
Somehow we had become detached from Tommaso, but anyone who has ridden with him will know that his navigational skills are unique….he could get lost in a telephone kiosk….we had no fear that somehow, some day, some way he would arrive safely at Carhaix. And so he did.
In the meantime Doc and The Wattmeister failed to locate the Macdonalds just 200m from the control, but did manage to empty a local delicatessen of most of its unsold food. Reunited, we pressed on to Loudeac. The feeling in the camp was positive as we rode parallel to the pan flat Nantes-Brest canal, perversely climbing every hill in this picturesque part of Brittany. The first 45 kms from Carhaix contained 700m of ascent, just what we were hoping for after the stage from Brest. Another lovely semi-control at Gouarec provided us with sustenance and we continued to head upwards.
However, once we had crested the elevated interior at Silfiac, there was some respite in the drop down to Pontivy where a square had been requisitioned for PBP, and a party was in full swing. We devoured free crisps and nuts for their salt content, and whacked down a coffee or two for the caffeine, and no doubt we would have injected with EPO if it was on offer…the kindliness of the volunteers gave us a boost and we negotiated the charming lanes to Loudeac in a chipper state of mind.
Once again we were treated to a triumphant reception at Loudeac. After a swift card stamp, and a whiff of the hog roast, Captain Tom was on hand to escort us back to Aquarev campsite to be embraced by the care of the NL randonneurs team. We made good use of the facilities and departed for a sleep stop in Quedillac, 60kms away, 853kms into the ride, and 330kms for that day’s work.
Our experiences differed at Quedillac. The Wattmeister was offered a bed in a warm compound…”what am I supposed to do with that?…” he thought, whilst eyeing up the floorspace adjacent to it. Tom, Doc and Tommaso were posted in a drafty shed, formerly set aside for livestock before their final journey.
It has to be said that there was an element of that as we mounted our bikes at 05.30a.m and headed for the next control at Tineniac. The Wattmeister stopped for a pee and was cast aside like a broken twig by his erstwhile teammates. Regrouping at Tinteniac, Doc needed some mechanical assistance and a neck brace before continuing to Fougeres. Tommaso had a bad patch. Not once had he complained about the injuries sustained on the first night, but now he was muted and suffering with stomach issues. Eschewing the services of our esteemed medical consultant, Tommaso deemed that a strong coffee would fix everything…but it was a long road into Fougeres for the mighty Italian.
Arriving at 10.30 a.m with empty stomachs, we availed ourselves of practically everything on the menu, and the food did not disappoint. Before we left, it seemed only civilised to allow the digestive system some time to process prodigious amount of food we had consumed, so we took a power nap in the shade with numerous others of similar mindset.
Fougeres to Villaines can be a fast ride after the initial climb out to Mont Romain, but once again the mercury had spiralled up to an uncomfortable level, so we dallied and dawdled to Gorron where Doc bought an orthopedic neck brace and we were treated to water and cokes by roadside well-wishers.
Somewhere on the long road from Gorron to Villaines our merry band fragmented. The Wattmeister spied Tommaso and Doc examining the recycling bins in a dechetterie just before Ambrieres…they deny it…before stopping for a nap outside the toilet block where Bubbles met Jane in 2019.
Now alone, The Wattmeister followed the D33 under a blazing sun, stopping at various stalls for vital fluids. After the right turn at Charchigné, he spotted Doc in the distance, and by the enormous marquee at Le Ribay, he was once again reunited with Doc and Tommaso. The big climb up and over to Hardanges stood between us and the control at Villaines. Somehow, we split up. The Wattmeister chose to stop for a proper refuel at Loupfougeres, yet another village who had dedicated the past few days to this event.
Consuming a hot dog with mustard, a bowl of vegetable soup and a piece of flan simultaneously whilst explaining the action over the preceding 1000km in schoolboy French to a wide-eyed audience elicited much praise, or was it sympathy. Anyway it was a good call. The welcome in Villaines was once again stupendously generous. A swift turnaround, including a shower put The Wattmeister about 40 minutes in front of his companions, time which was used for yet another power nap.
Around 18.45, off we went to Mortagne-au-Perche. Once again the group split for reasons now forgotten. However, Doc and The Wattmeister had made an unspoken pact to exorcise the ghost of LEL 2022 and stay together until the end…also, Doc needed a companion with medical knowledge, and The Wattmeister needed someone with mechanical knowledge…a mismatch made in heaven.
It was a pleasantly warm evening as we rode through Alencon, briefly stopping at yet another roadside oasis run by a local family. We dozed off for ten minutes in their deckchairs, despite the applause for passing cyclists and the hubbub of playing children. As darkness fell, we joined another cavalcade of red lights, this time belonging to Club AC Loudeac, one of whom was in obvious distress and was being pushed along by teammates. We fell in line for quite a while.
It has ALWAYS been chilly in the Perche region at night, but this evening was totally different. The temperature was 25 degrees celsius. We took a nap in the village of Pervencheres, where another party was in full swing, and on awakening, duly allowed ourselves to be escorted by another peloton to the Mortagne-au -Perche control.
Tommaso and Captain Tom were already sleeping here, but due to the warmth of the night and the fact that we had been topping up with power naps, Doc and TW decided to tackle the muted hills of the Perche in the darkness. One after the other they popped up on Garmin ClimbPro, eventually we descended to Senonches, enjoyed a couple of bowls of soup and cycled off to Dreux, the final control before the finish.
Now there was a sense of just wanting this to be over. We had plenty of time and energy, but Doc was suffering with his neck, and although The Wattmeister was itching to tie his helmet to his seatpost and put it on TikTok, the charms of Rambouillet beckoned. We pressed on ahead of our pals, briefly featuring in a documentary on wonky long distance cyclists which was being filmed on the D936.
10kms to go, then 5 kms to go, and after what seemed hours, we turned into the grounds of the chateau to an overwhelming reception of friends and relatives, townspeople, riders who had already finished, volunteers and pets. It was crazy emotional, but after polite recognition to all concerned, what we really needed at 09.30 a.m was a drink.
Tom and Tommaso arrived soon after.
And a sleep….
…..and loads of pizzas
Photos courtesy of Tommaso Sicuro